NEHHDC Achieves Oeko-Tex Certification for Eri Silk

20-08-2024

On August 15, 2024, the North Eastern Handicrafts and Handlooms Development Corporation (NEHHDC), operating under the Ministry of Development of North Eastern Region (DoNER), Government of India, attained the esteemed Oeko-Tex certification for its Eri Silk.

This significant achievement, announced on India’s 78th Independence Day, not only highlights the traditional craftsmanship of the Northeast but also establishes Eri Silk as a globally recognized, sustainable textile.

About Eri Silk

Unique Characteristics:
1. Eri Silk is distinguished as the world’s only vegan silk. Unlike other silks, which require killing the moth inside the cocoon, Eri Silk allows the moth to naturally exit the cocoon. This ethical method of production makes Eri Silk a symbol of compassion and sustainability in the textile industry.
Production and Distribution:
1. Produced by the domesticated silkworm Philosamia ricini, which primarily feeds on castor leaves, Eri Silk is predominantly cultivated in the northeastern states of India, including Assam.
2. It is also found in Bihar, West Bengal, and Orissa.
3. Eri Silk is recognized as a Geographical Indication (GI) product from Assam, emphasizing its regional significance and authenticity.

Significance of Oeko-Tex Certification

Certification Standards:
1. The Oeko-Tex certification represents a rigorous standard ensuring that textiles are tested for harmful substances and produced under environmentally friendly conditions. This endorsement is crucial for establishing Eri Silk’s credentials as a sustainable and safe product in the global market.
Impact on Global Market:
1. The certification is a step in expanding Eri Silk's presence in the global export market. It enhances the silk’s international appeal and positions it as a leading eco-friendly fabric.
Commitment to Heritage and Sustainability:
1. This accomplishment underscores NEHHDC’s dedication to promoting and preserving the rich cultural heritage of Assam while aligning with global sustainability practices.

What is Geographical Indication (GI) Tag?

Geographical Indications (GI tags) in India are signs used to denote products that originate from a specific geographical location and possess qualities, reputation, or characteristics linked to that origin.

Governed by the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act of 1999, these tags are crucial for promoting unique products, preserving cultural heritage, and enhancing marketability in the global arena.
It serves as an intellectual property right, ensuring the product's unique attributes are protected against unauthorized use.
Benefits:
1. Legal protection against misuse.
2. Exclusive rights to use the GI tag.
3. Prevention of imitation and misleading representations.
4. Legal recourse for infringement.
Types of Products:
1. Agricultural products, foodstuffs, wines, spirits, handicrafts, and industrial products.
Eligibility Criteria:
1. Any trader's group or organization can apply by proving the product’s uniqueness with historical records and detailed production processes.

International Conventions on GI Tags

Paris Convention (1883):
1. Provides a framework for protecting industrial property rights, including GIs.
Lisbon System (1958):
1. Establishes an international registration system for appellations of origin, a specific type of GI.
Madrid System:
1. Mainly for trademarks but also supports GI protection through collective or certification marks.

GI Tag in India

GI Registry:
1. Managed by the Department of Industry Promotion and Internal Trade (DIPIT) under the Ministry of Commerce and Industry.
Significance:
1. Promotes and protects traditional products.
2. Enhances global marketability.
3. Preserves cultural heritage.
4. Prevents misuse and encourages sustainable practices.
GI Act of 1999:
1. Establishes the GI Registry and outlines registration criteria.
2. Provides initial 10-year protection with indefinite renewal.
3. Enforces GI rights with civil and criminal penalties.

State-Wise GI Tag Products in India

Notable Example:
1. The first GI tag was awarded to Darjeeling Tea.
Scope:
1. GI tags are granted to a wide array of products across various states, each highlighting unique regional characteristics and traditional practices.

The Various States' GI tags are as Follows:

State	GI Tags
Andhra Pradesh	Handicraft: Srikalahasti Kalamkari, Kondapalli Bommallu, Budithi Bell and Brass Metal Craft, Uppada Jamdani Sarees, Bobbili Veena, Durgi Stone Carvings, Etikoppaka Toys. Food Stuff: Tirupati Laddu, Bandar Laddu Agricultural: Guntur Sannam Chilli, Banaganapalle Mangoes.
Arunachal Pradesh	Handicraft: Idu Mishmi Textiles Agricultural: Khaw Tai (Khamti Rice), Yak Churpi
Assam	Handicraft: Muga Silk Manufactured: Judima
Bihar	Handicraft: Madhubani Paintings, Sujini Embroidery Manufactured: Bhagalpuri Zardalu, Katarni Rice Food Stuff: Silao Khaja
Chattisgarh	Handicraft: Bastar Dhokra, Champa Silk Saree and Fabrics
Goa	Manufactured: Feni Agricultural: Khola Chilli
Gujarat	Handicraft: Sankheda Furniture, Tangaliya Shawl, Jamnagari Bandhani, Mata ni Pachhedi Agricultural: Bhalia Wheat
Himachal Pradesh	Handicraft: Kullu Shawl Agricultural: Kangra Tea
Jharkhand	Handicraft: Sohrai – Khovar Painting.
Karnataka	Handicraft: Mysore Silk, Kasuti Embroidery, Molakalmuru Sarees Handicraft, Sandur Lambani Embroidery, Kinhal Toys, Kolhapuri Chappal Manufactured: Mysore Sandal Soap, Mysore Agarbathi Agricultural: Coorg Orange, Coorg Green Cardamom, Devanahalli Pomello, Appemidi Mango, Byadagi Chilli, Indi Limbe, Monsooned Malabar Robusta Coffee, Monsooned Malabar Arabica Coffee
Kerala	Handicraft: Aranmula Kannadi, Alleppey Coil. Agricultural: Navara Rice, Pokkali Rice, Kaipad Rice, Chengalikodan Nendran Banana, Nilambur Teak, Tirur Betel Leaf (Tirur Vettila), Attappady Thuvara
Madhya Pradesh	Handicraft: Chanderi Sarees, Maheshwar Sarees and Fabrics Agricultural: Sharbati Gehu Food Stuff: Jhabua Kadaknath Black Chicken Meat, Ratlami Sev
Maharashtra	Agricultural: Nashik Grapes, Ajara Ghansal Rice, Mangalwedha Jowar, Navapur Tur Dal, Lasalgaon Onion, Sangli Raisins, Ambemohar Rice, Alphonso Handicraft: Kolhapuri Chappal
Manipur	Handicraft: Shaphee Lanphee, Wangkhei Phee
Mizoram	Handicraft: Pawndum, Tawlhlohpuan
Odisha	Handicraft: Konark Stone Carving, Khandua Saree and Fabrics, Gopalpur Tussar Fabrics, Dungaria Kondh Embroidered Shawl Agricultural: Kandhamal Haladi, Koraput Kalajeera Rice
Rajasthan	Handicraft: Thewa Art Work, Molela Clay Work, Sanganeri Hand Block Printing, Bagru Hand Block Print, Pokaran Pottery. Natural: Makrana Marble
Tamilnadu	Handicraft: Salem Fabric, Kancheepuram Silk, Madurai Sungudi, Thanjavur Paintings, Salem Silk (Salem Venpattu), Kovai Kora Cotton Sarees, Arani Silk, Pattamadai Pai (Pattamadai Mat), Toda Embroidery, Mahabalipuram Stone Sculpture, Thirubuvanam Silk Sarees, Dindigul Locks, Kandangi Sarees. Manufactured: East India Leather. Agricultural: Madurai Malli, Erode Manjal (Erode Turmeric). Food Stuff: Kovilpatti Kadalai Mittai, Salem Sago. Natural: Marthandam Honey.
Telangana	Handicraft: Pochampalli Ikat, Nirmal Toys and Craft, Gadwal Sarees, Cheriyal Paintings, Pembarthi Metal Craft, Adilabad Dokra, Telia Rumal
Uttar Pradesh	Handicraft: Khurja Pottery, Mahoba Gaura Patthar Hastashlip, Mainpuri Tarkashi, Sambhal Horn Craft Agricultural: Mango Malihabadi Dusseheri, Kalanamak Rice.
West Bengal	Handicraft: Nakshi Kantha, Baluchari Saree, Dhaniakhali Saree, Purulia Chau Mask Agricultural: Darjeeling Tea, Tulapanji Rice, Gobindobhog Rice Food Stuff: Joynagar Moa, Bardhaman Sitabhog.
Union Territory	GI Tags
Jammu and Kashmir	Handicraft: Kani Shawl, Agricultural: Ramban Sulai Honey, Mushqbudji Rice, Bhaderwah Rajmash, Kashmir Saffron
Pondicherry	Handicraft: Villianur Terracotta Works, Tirukanur Papier Mache Craft
Ladakh	Handicraft: Pashmina Wool Agricultural: Ladakh Raktsey Karpo Apricot
Joint GI Tag Products of States
Karnataka and Kerala: Monsooned Malabar Robusta Coffee, Monsooned Malabar Arabica Coffee Kerala and TN: Alleppey Green Cardamom Maharashtra, Gujarat, Dadara & Nagar Haveli, and Daman Diu: Warli Painting Punjab / Haryana / H.P / Delhi / Uttarakhand / U.P / J&K: Basmati Punjab, Rajasthan and Haryana: Phulkari Manipur and Nagaland: Chak - Hao

Conclusion:

The Oeko-Tex certification for Eri Silk represents a landmark achievement for NEHHDC and the Northeast region. It not only highlights the ethical and sustainable nature of Eri Silk but also sets the stage for its increased global recognition and market expansion. This milestone reinforces the commitment to preserving traditional craftsmanship while embracing modern standards of sustainability and environmental responsibility.